Cycling Around Mount Fuji

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Note that this photo is a posed shot. You are supposed to cycling anti-clockwise around the lake! Haha If you are deciding between taking the train to Kawaguchiko or driving, you can check out the car rental prices at   https://www.nipponrentacar.co.jp/english/user-guide/reservations.html   and train prices at   http://www.hyperdia.com/ It depends on whether you’re staying overnight at Kawaguchiko and the number of people travelling. Remember to add toll fees of about ¥4200 one way. We decided to rent a car but forgot about the toll fees so it ended up being more expensive. I’d say if you’re staying for one night and there are at least 3 of you, renting a car is a good option. If there are two of you and you want more freedom to move around (such as going to neighbouring places like Oshino Hakkai, Chureito Pagoda, Yamanakako etc) it is also better to rent a car. You should also be warned that traffic is congested upon leaving and arriving at Tokyo. We parked our car at our ryokan Kozan

Japan September 2017: Ine no Funaya (伊根の舟屋)





(日本語があまり上手じゃないので、すみません。)


This has got to be the highlight of the trip! I can't believe we only discovered this paradise now!

All the funaya that accept internet bookings were full for our shortlisted dates so I had to make a reservation by phone to Kagiya (Japanese only). Alternatively, you can leave a message on the Facebook page and they will reply very promptly. Before boarding the bus to Ine from Amanohashidate, I had called Mina San to inform her of my ETA so she can meet us at Ine bus stop. Since we arrived at 2PM but check in is 3PM, she took our baggage and we hung around at Ine Cafe and used the complimentary bicycles to check out the nearby spots.


伊根の舟屋は今度の一番楽しい経験だ!

電話で鍵屋を予約した。鍵屋のみなさんは伊根のバス停に待って、伊根カフェに送ってくれた。いろんなデザート(クレムブル、チョコレートケーキ、マンゴプリン)を食べて、無料な自転車に乗る、周りに観光した。


Ine Cafe, a rather modern and hip place
モダンな気持ちの伊根カフェ

Ine cafe
伊根カフェ

Complimentary bikes around the village
無料な無料な自転車

Mina san came by the cafe again to pick us up for check in. Upon entering Kagiya, we were amazed that it looked very well-furnished and well-maintained despite the weathered exterior. The view from our window on level 2 was spectacular and we felt so blessed to be in this paradise. From our window, we could watch Mina san's husband and dad fishing for our dinner. 

3時にチェックインして、みなさんは伊根カフェに会って、鍵屋へ行った。舟屋の外観は昔の感じがあるのに、中はモダンだ。二階の窓から海が見える。とても嬉しかった。みなさんのご主人とお父さんは釣っていた。


Level 1: Dining area with sea view
一階:海が見えるのダイニング


My Melody and Funayan
メロでィちゃんとふなやんくん
My Melody and Funayan at the boat docking area outside the dining area
メロでィちゃんとふなやんくん
Level 1: Bathroom
一階:浴室


Level 1: Bathroom
一階:浴室


Bathroom amenities
アメニティ

Bathroom amenities
アメニティ


The basin at the toilet is so cute!
可愛い絵!
Living room at Level 2
二階:リビング


The bedroom at level 2

二階: 寝室

The bedroom at level 2

二階: 寝室
Welcome snack
舟屋のせんべいとお茶
Dinner was an extravagant array of sashimi, steamed fish, braised fish and fresh vegetables. We felt so bad that we could not finish the food because it was just too much. Mina San's husband is an excellent chef and I felt that the food is even better than the ones at some of the ryokan I've stayed in.

夕食はとっても多くて、美味しかった。食欲が小さくて、残念だった。みなさんの御主人は料理が本当に上手だよ。泊まった旅館よりも美味しいと思う。


Grilled squid and fish salad
焼きイカと魚サラダ

Ika sashimi. We were told that this is the frilly part of the squid
イカ刺身。

Boiled tentacles. Super crunchy!
イカの触手。とっても美味しかった!

Assorted sashimi
刺身!たくさん!

Mina san even drew a picture to explain the type of fish used
みなさんが書いた魚を説明する絵

Steamed Amadai
蒸しあまだい

Braised Aji
煮たあじ

Lovely grapes
ブウドウ

The next morning, we visited the morning market and strolled around near Kagiya to take photos.

朝は市場へいった。また、鍵屋の周りを散歩したり、写真を撮った。


Nibi Valley photo spot
いいフォトスポット

Nibi Valley photo spot
いいフォトスポット
Breakfast was a balanced meal of salt-grilled fish, vegetables,  chawanmushi, miso soup packed with fresh mushrooms, rice.

その後は昼食を食べた。塩焼き魚とか、茶碗蒸しとか、味噌汁とか、とっても美味しかった。





Prior to our arrival, Mina san had emailed to inform that their boat Herbie had been damaged and apologized for not being able to offer us a complimentary tour around the bay. She very kindly arranged for a neighbour's boat to take us on a tour and we paid the elderly gentleman (who spoke Japanese very fast!) ¥1000 each. I will strongly recommend going with one of these smaller boats unless the waves are choppy because you have the whole boat to yourself. There are larger sightseeing boats which are more stable but you will likely be with other tourists.

鍵屋の船「ハービ」は壊れて、隣舟屋の船に乗って、伊根湾を観光した。料金は一人1000円だ。船長は速く話して、あまりわからなかった。(笑)



Chris enjoying it while it lasts
離れる時、悲しい。。。

Mina san then drove us up to 舟屋の里公園 (Funaya no sato koen) where we can have a panoramic view of the bay. We had a snack at the restaurant on level 2 while enjoying the view one last time before going back to Kyoto.

舟屋の里公園の展望台から美しい景色が見える。どうして京都へ何回来たのに、この素晴らしい所へ来たことがないなあ。。。二階レストランでお菓子を食べながら、ゆっくり美しい景色が目に留まった。


We really miss this place and felt very touched by the hospitality of the Kagi family. Thank you for the wonderful stay!

鍵家族のおもてなしから、本当に感動している!ありがとう!

The Kagi family
鍵の家族



It is possible to couple this trip with a night in Amanohashidate. We have stayed at Amanohashidate twice but never discovered this Venice of Japan or what they call 海の京都 (umi no kyoto), Kyoto by the sea. We will definitely be back again and we plan to bring our bicycles and cycle from Amanohashidate across the land bridge and to Ine the next time. It will be about 19km which is very doable.

伊根湾へ行く前、天の橋立に泊まりもできる。天の橋立へ二回め行ったのに、ユトピアみたい伊根が知らない。ビックリするような。。。もう一度伊根へ行ったら、天の橋立から自電車で行こうと思っている!

Funaya Accommodation
Kagiya 
¥20 000 per pax excluding tax, dinner and breakfast included
CASH ONLY 

泊まる:
舟屋の宿鍵屋
一人 20000円 (一泊二食)
現金だけ



Access:
2 hours on the limited express Hashidate from JR Kyoto station brings you to Amanohashidate where you can hop on to a local bus to Ine. JR Pass may be used for this train but you have to pay a small sum (about 1500 yen, I can't quite remember) because part of the route runs on non-JR tracks.


Check train times here: http://www.hyperdia.com/en/



You can also check out the Tango trains which are very fun to ride. I've tried the Aomatsu and Akamatsu before and enjoyed the very pretty interior and scenic rides.



The bus takes 1 hour and costs 400 yen. Take a ticket upon boarding and pay when you get off. No reservations required. Take note that the buses are infrequent (about 1 hour intervals) and bus times coincide with the train arrival times so do go directly to the bus stop right in front of the station after alighting from the train. We missed the bus at Amanohashidate by 2 minutes because I stopped to help a lost couple and had to wait more than an hour for the next one but as a result, we found a nice cafe beside the station that serves affordable and tasty meals. Get out of the station and turn right you will see the cafe. It's called Jou Jou. Do not be alarmed if you see many elderly people on the bus! The mean age of the people on our bus was at least 70! Haha...

アクセス:
JR京都駅から橋立特急で(2時間)JR天の橋立駅に到着して、普通バス(1時間)に乗り換えは伊根湾に到着した。駅前のバス停は時刻表がある。バス費は一人400円だ。間に合ったら、電車を降りて、すぐバス停へ行った方がいいよ。

京都から直接バスもある。5日前に予約必要だ。

Bus route
Bus time table at Amanohashidate station
There is also an express bus that takes 140 mins from Kyoto to Ine but it requires reservation at least 5 days in advance. I am not sure how this reservation can be done. I also do not know whether there is toilet on the bus. At least I know there is toilet on the limited express train haha...

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